When it first landed on my bench, this Hartke wasn't a pretty sight. Not only was the amplifier dead, all pots at the front were damaged. Some even had their shafts broken off. Upon removing the top cover, I was relieved to find the innards intact. On closer inspection, there were no burnt marks on the preamp and amplifier board, which is encouraging.

Author:Kelrajas Doumi
Country:Cape Verde
Language:English (Spanish)
Published (Last):6 November 2004
PDF File Size:6.41 Mb
ePub File Size:4.32 Mb
Price:Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]

Tags: ha hartke input wiring. Feb 9, 1. Mar 9, Sorry to create a whole thread for what will probably be a very quick answer, but I've been searching and just haven't been able to find the info I need.

Both inputs on my HA are scratchy and intermittent beyond usability. Fortunately, the whole input section is on it's own little circuit board and connects to the rest of the amp via a plastic clip or plug, or whatever it should be called. Rather than try to find the exact input barrels from a parts supplier I haven't had much luck with that anyway , I'd rather just replace the whole thing with two traditional input jacks and wire them straight to the plastic connector with the white, black and red wires.

Looking at the tracings on the circuit board, I'm guessing that white is input one passive , black is ground, and red is input two active. The only thing that seems strange about that is that it means the resistor which pads the signal of the active input is connected to the ground between input one and two.

I would think that the resistor would be on the signal path of input two, but I'm obviously not very experienced in electronics so maybe across the ground is correct. That was the main thing I was trying to confirm but I couldn't find any wiring diagrams showing an active and passive input circuit. I will most likely not even add the resistor when I rewire since I don't care if I have the signal pad anyway.

In that case, I assume I would just connect the input from jack one to white, the input from jack two to red, and the grounds for both to black. Am I on the right track, or have I completely misunderstood what's going on here? JPG File size: Feb 9, 2. I have most likely a different revision schematic attached if that will help. Feb 9, 3. Get a nylon. Clean the jacks with them. Feb 9, 4. Oct 19, Bulgaria. They are ok, but just for the front panel! There is no enough place to use such jacks for the rear one!

The first thing you must do is to measure the old jacks after desoldering them and see what is happening with the circuit when you put a jack in and out. One of the leads is for braking the signal I can't explain it better. Do this with the new jacks, too and see which one goes where.

One of the leads they are four have to be redundant, I think it was the ground braking one so you have three to solder like it is on the old jacks. I used some short pieces of nice wire with insulation tube to solder the new jacks on the PCB. You can see on the pictures that the legs of the new jacks are pointing up.

That is because it was the only way to mount them on the panel. You have to be careful on that part and my advise is to mount them on the panel before you solder them and see how everything will fit!!! Last edited: Feb 9, Feb 9, 5. Feb 10, 6. Those are the most common and most standard Switchcraft style jacks on the planet. Any quality tech or repair shop should have them in stock. They may not sell them to you however, because DIY repairs so often lead to other problems, but to have a shop do this job right and not damage the PCB in the process should be quite inexpensive.

BassmanPaul likes this. Feb 10, 7. Jan 29, Sanborn, NY. Have you tried changing the tube? Feb 10, 8. Feb 10, 9. Oct 6, Phoenixville, PA I'd be interested in one of these as well.. I have a hartke with the same issue, it's just old and the jacks have worn out. Be really great if I could find that assembly to just drop in. I could take it to have repaired I guess, but that amp has been a backup to my backup for years, so I'm not super motivated to deal with it.

I emailed Samson about it a while back and never got a response. Feb 10, Can't help you if you don't have access to proper service professionals. That's why they are call professional, they do this for a living and know exactly what they are looking at, where to get the parts, and how to fix it correctly.

These parts or equiv. Fender parts are available in your part of the world I'm sure. No one can help me with that for sure and it's difficult in my region to order parts. If it is for warranty issues it's easy these days you just send the thing back but for something not traditional and out of warranty it's almost impossible to get some proper service. No one can take your money here or at least not an official technician who represents the maker and that's why it's easy to learn how to improvise and basically do the things on your own.

In my country there is no even one service center for the brands that I use in my rig. There is no Fender service center, too. But it will cost me too much, one third of the price I paid for the amp. I bought this amp for backup because my LH was send to Thomann for warranty service. It was 15 years old in poor cosmetic condition and with two bad jacks, one on the front and one on the rear side effects loop I think.

It was easy fix and I've done it by myself. Changed the front two jacks with these on the picture I've posted and replaced the one in the back with the working one from the front. That was it and I'm happy with the result. The last time I checked for Europe I can order this type of jack Switchcraft apcs if I recall it right but it needs to be at least pcs. Maybe there is a place from where I can buy it but I just didn't found it. I'm not trying to complain about that. The things are what they are and my intention was to help the OP.

Just saying it's easy to learn to solder and do small repairs by your own, every thing could happen and it could happen in the bad possible moment so it's good to know how to do some things.

I keep learning Sorry for the long post. Here's the part, available shipped to Bulgaria and most countries in any quantity. Thank you agedhorse, I really appreciate your help!

I know Digi-key from the time when I was looking for a replacement fen for this particular amp but the shipping costs are just terrifying and that means even more money for taxes and VAT when the time comes for the package to be released from the customhouse.

I told you, it sucks here Maybe in future if I need some other parts Hope that will help some folks that are in USA. But still my account is not fully functional and I can't see the other shipping prices.

Last edited: Feb 10, Standard international mail is much less expensive. VAT is the cost you pay for living in a country that provides the services it does for it's citizens. If you look at ALL taxes and costs, versus income, it's not all that different overall. Mar 19, Not to distract from agedhorse's recommendation of a direct replacement: the reason that circuit looks complicated is that the jack has internal contacts that allow making or breaking a connection when a plug is inserted, and is probably a tip-ring-sleeve jack.

This allows doing things like grounding the input when no jack is inserted. And it's probably why it's hard to figure out what the pad resistor is connected to. Aug 19, Chicago Im not allowed to say really. Man TBH if you can, sell this amp, and save for a new one. Try maybe Zzounds. Had this amp and it blows. No matter how many times I brought it in to get fixed something else would break. Finally it literally blew up at a show this was prio to having a surge protector Furman or something, did cause me to invest though.

If you fix it great. But get rid of it when you can even if it takes you 2yrs to save! Buddy of mine had same problem with the series or whatever it's called, one step up from the ha Sorry it's not prolly what you want to hear.

I know money's tight everywhere especially for full time musicians. But the above sites let you make payments without credit check type of deals.


Hartke HA3500 input wiring

Found on stages all over the world, the Hartke bass amplifier is back in classic black. Yet, it retains all the same rock-solid performance and features as the original that have made it one of the most popular bass amplifiers of all time. The 's unique circuitry ensures that every nuance of your bass performance is faithfully reproduced. Featuring two Pre-Amp input knobs, allowing custom blending of tube and solid state tone, and ten-band graphic EQ, the is ideal for the player who wants plenty of power and control. But we don't stop there.


Hartke Diagrams, Schematics, Service Manuals




Related Articles